Genoa, Italy

Genoa, Italy

Happy Easter everyone!

This was our first time to Genoa and we approached the day on our own, without a tour or a guide, as it was Easter. We made our way through the narrow streets, church bells were ringing, and there was a light rain in the air. We saw first the Piazza de Ferrari, a large square with a beautiful fountain. We wondered up and down the streets, making our way to Piazza de Matteo and then to Piazza San Lorenzo. We enjoyed a cappuccino and waited until Mary and Tim came out from mass at Cattedrale San Lorenzo. We wondered up the hill to Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, where they were holding an Easter market.

We grabbed a slice of pizza for lunch, then continued to walk the city. Genoa has 865,000 residents and was settled around 2000BC by seafaring Greeks, who found that it possessed an excellent natural harbor on the Mediterranean Sea. It was later occupied by Romans, Ostrogoths and Lombards, and then became a possession of the Holy Roman Empire. Christopher Columbus was born in Genoa in 1451 and was an experienced sailor by his twenties.

We wandered down to the Piazza delle Feste, and had a Limoncello Spritz at Antico Caffe. Marshall and Tim needed haircuts so we found a nice shop, open on Easter, where they could get it done. We made it back to the ship in time for dinner, where we enjoyed some yummy pasta.

After dinner, the captain came on the horn to tell us there has been another change in itinerary. Due to weather, we will not be making call in Livorno, Italy. Instead, we will go straight away to Civitavecchia (Rome), hunker down and overnight there. Good grief, this weather system has been dogging us for days.

Next stop, tomorrow: Civitavecchia (Rome), Italy

Toulon, France

Toulon, France

We’ve been to Toulon before. In fact, one of my very favorite photos that I’ve ever snapped is in Toulon, of Marshall and Peter. I’ve displayed it here, cause, well you know…it’s one of my faves.

Today, however, we took off for the Provence seaside villages of Sanary-sur-Mer and Brandol. This was not a historical day, nor was it an intellectual day. Not by a long shot. Today was a feast for the eyes, nose, and taste buds.

In Sanary-sur-Mer we strolled through the town’s fresh market where the purveyors and goods were in full abundance. I’ve never seen such large white asparagus, or bright red strawberries. We visited the Church de Nazaire and enjoyed a French hot chocolate at Brasserie de la Marine. We then continued on to several small shops, boulangeries and boutiques de bon bons. If I could provide smell-a-vision, I would.

The second village was Brandol and here we enjoyed a signature Brandol Rose’ wine. We decided not to return to the ship with the tour bus, instead opting to stay awhile longer. We shopped and strolled, then had lunch at Le Diam’s. We caught an Uber back to the ship, with plenty of time.

Next stop tomorrow: Genoa, Italy

Marseille, France

Marseille, France

We spent very little time in Marseille, instead opting to go to Avignon to visit the Palace of the Popes. Once a fortress and palace, the papal residence was the seat of Western Christianity during the 14th century when the Romans kicked the Catholic See out of Rome. Six papal conclaves were held in the Palace, leading to the elections of Benedict XII in 1334, Clement VI in 1342, Innocent VI in 1352, Urban V in 1362, Gregory XI in 1370 and Benedict XIII in 1394. The seat of the catholic church returned to Rome in 1394. Since 1995, the “Palais des Papes” has been classified, along with the historic center of Avignon, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, for its outstanding architecture and historical importance for the papacy.

The original palace was built in 1334 by Benedict XII, and a second more elaborate palace built by Clement VI. Together they represent the largest Gothic building of the Middle Ages. It remained in papal control until 1791, when during the French Revolution, it became a part of France and served as barracks for French troops. During this residence, the frescoes were damaged, furnishings and art looted and much of the palace damaged. Only over the past 100 years has an effort been made to restore the palace.

Today the buildings are a museum and research center, and the courtyard is a central performance location during the Festival d’Avignon, which is held every year in July. It is also the site of many cultural and economic events including exhibitions, shows, and conventions.

We enjoyed a nice lunch at Hotel du Palace des Papes and some shopping in town. Avignon and the Palace sit on the Rhone River, in the middle of the Provence region of France. Nearby is the French wine region of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Back on the ship, there is an electrical problem so lights have been out and our departure has been delayed.

Next port, tomorrow (hopefully!): Toulon, France

Barcelona, Spain

Barcelona, Spain

Today we toured with the Biegers. If I’ve not previously told, this family is originally from New Jersey, but now live in Pawley’s Island, SC. We met them towards the beginning of the cruise and have enjoyed their company at dinner and on tours. There are two brothers, Michael and John, married to Karen and Kathy. Karen and I have a trivia team. We thoroughly enjoy their company.

We headed off early for our destination, the Monastery and Basilica of Montserrat. Using another excellent guide, Ramon Burgues, from Tours by Locals, we learned that Montserrat is a multi-peak mountain range just north of Barcelona, in the region of Catalonia. With its highest peak, Sant Jeroni, at just over 4000ft, Montserrat translates to “serrated mountain” and when you see the unusual rock formations, you understand the name.

The abbey of Montserrat was founded in 1025, and in 1811 and in 1812, during Napoleon’s invasion of Spain, the abbey was twice burned down and sacked by Napoleon’s troops, and many of its treasures were lost. In 1835, the abbey was closed until restoration began in 1844 and continued into the 20th centuries. It was granted basilica status in 1861 and is still a working monastery today with 70 monks, a museum, a boarding school for a boys’ choir and a hotel.

Another notable element of the basilica is the Virgin of Montserrat, the patron saint of Catalonia. As a 38-inch statue, she holds an orb of the earth in her right hand. The Child’s hand is raised in a formalized and traditional Eastern blessing. Often referred to as the Black Virgin, the metal of the statue has taken on a darker shade over the years. I found the statue stunning and moving.

We took a funicular ride to the top of the mountain, another 2000 feet above the monastery. We could see the Pyrenes Mountain range in the distance, covered with snow. After a ride back to Barcelona, we visited La Sagrada Familia, the baroque styled cathedral designed by Antoni Gaudi. Started in 1881, it is the largest unfinished catholic cathedral in the world. We visited La Sagrada in 2018 and was told then it would be finished by 2026, the 100th year anniversary of Gaudi’s death. Alas, they are now saying the cathedral will not be finished until 2034. Barcelona has a population of 6.7M and was bustling. We popped over to the Cotton House Hotel where we stayed in 2018 and enjoyed a refreshing drink on their beautiful patio.

Next stop tomorrow: Marseille, France

Recommended:

Ramon Burgues, Tours by Locals

https://www.toursbylocals.com/tours/barcelona-catalonia/spain/tour-details/montserrat-mountain-monastery-and-sanctuary-with-a-local-guide-664d256e1bbe5b817c36ecb

Cartagena, Spain

Cartagena, Spain

For this unexpected port, we did an unexpected excursion. We took a trike ride out of Cartagena to visit the abandoned silver mines. We learned that Cartagena was the epicenter of silver mining during the occupation by the Romans, through the corrupt dictatorship of Franco, until just about 30 years ago. Since WWII, the mining was done using very, very toxic chemicals that created the worst ecological disaster in Spain’s history. Though they have been working to remediate the chemicals, there are hundreds of mines and most of it is a waste land. The EU has invested millions of dollars to help Cartagena deal with the aftermath.

Our trikes were driven by expats from England. They were jolly and informative and we enjoyed our tour. In the afternoon, we took a trolley tour around the town, and then walked the main thoroughfare with friends. As this is Easter Holy week, the town was decorated with banners and drapes. There is a parade each night of holy week and the town’s people were in a festive mood.

Cartagena, founded in 227BC, is Spain’s 6th largest city with 214,000 residents. It is the home of the Spanish navy, and enjoys a temperate climate year-round. As we were departing the port, small fireworks were being set off that I was able to capture in a couple of photos.

Next port in 1 day: Barcelona, Spain