
Toledo, Spain
Toledo is about an hour drive south of Madrid and was the first capital of Spain until 1561. It was originally an early settlement before the Romans captured and expanded the walled fortress in 200BC. The muslim Berbers conquered the city in 712AD and established a mosque, before it was retaken by Christians in 1085. Toledo is called the “City of Three Cultures” because of the historical coexistence of Christian, Muslim, and Jewish communities, which left a significant architectural and cultural legacy. As such, the entire old city is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site.
Our guide today was Ernesto, from Tours by Locals, and our van driver was Victor. Both did an awesome job of getting us to vantage points by car, and then once inside the walled city which is nearly impossible to drive, we walked. Our first vantage point across the river from the city was breathtaking. We had picked up churros and chocolate on our way into town and we spent a few minutes enjoying those while taking in the sights.
After our drop-off in the old city, we first stopped at Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes, no longer a working monastery but impressive in its design and craftmanship. At one time, this monastery would have had hundreds of cloistered monks living there. Such beauty, yet only the monks would have enjoyed it.
We made our way up the winding city streets to the home of the governor, which happened to be open today for tourists. This was built in the mid 1500s, considered relatively “new”, and had an impressive courtyard. We passed a few cars, one of which was being driven by two nuns. While one deftly maneuvered, the other moved massive wooden doors to present a hidden garage, of which they drove into. We were impressed!
We stopped for lunch at a very quaint establishment run by a couple that Ernesto knows. Taberna el Botero won “Best Tapas” last year and we know why. We had venison, pork, cod, potatoes and some local wine. We thoroughly enjoyed hanging out with Ernesto and learning about his life.
Our final stop was the magnificent Catedral Primada De Toledo. Constructed between 1227 – 1493, it has a unique blend of Mudejar and Gothic styles. We thought yesterday’s Salamanca Cathedral was impressive but this one was so unique and different, we decided this one was unrivaled. The buttresses were spectacular but most impressive was the use of frescoes and sculpture to create life-like scenes of nature and heaven. Our photos do not do it justice.
There was so much to see in Toledo, we think you could spend a week here and not get bored. After our drive back to Madrid, we recounted the day at a local restaurant called Happy Greens. This establishment is known for its fresh and unique blending of ingredients and we gobbled our salads like it was our last meal. Sorry, forgot to take photos!
Tomorrow: Madrid
Post Gallery
Gates to the Old City, Toledo, Spain.
Churros!
Alcantara Bridge, Toledo, Spain.
Catedral Primada De Toledo
The Tagus River, circling the old town.
The government buildings of the state of Castille-La Mancha.
Three musketeers.
Alcantara Bridge, from the other side, Toledo, Spain.
There are these unique Hebrew symbols in much of the old town.
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes
Mudejar styled ceiling, no nails.
We climbed up to get a view looking down on the chapel at the Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes.
The eagle motif is widely used in Spanish culture.
These frescoes were painted over on purpose as they fell out of style during the 18th century. Now they are considered treasured artwork.
Yowsa! Over the entranceway to the chapel.
Old town, Toledo, Spain
Peter, Marshall and Ernesto.
Nuns slipping into their garage.
Courtyard of governor's palace.
Taberna el Botero
So quaint!
The olives were seasoned with paprika. So good!
Pork cheeks in tomato sauce.
Potato, ham, egg and cheese.
Breaded cod.
Venison with shaved parmesan.
Catedral Primada De Toledo
Catedral Primada De Toledo
The carving is made of alabaster.
Monstrance of Arfe, also known as La Gran Ostensoria de Toledo, made of gold, silver and jewels, is paraded around the town during Easter week.
This is considered one of the earliest depictions of Mary and baby Jesus, in a sweet and playful way.
Painted frescos over wood and stone, combined with sculpture, make an over-the-top presentation. A deceased bishop's hat hangs in front.
Catedral Primada De Toledo
Catedral Primada De Toledo
Similar to the Sistine Chapel, this ceiling was amazing!
Catedral Primada De Toledo
Catedral Primada De Toledo
We loved our tour, Ernesto!
Lovely works inside the cathedral/s. Wow! Stellar bluebird skies!
Beautiful cathedral . Amazing pictures