Our first night in Nairobi provided an orchestra of nature sounds. As we laid in our bed, with our mosquito netting all around, we giggled with each and every new screech, snort, hoot and whistle. With each new sound, we were texting Peter in the next cottage “what the hell was that?”. These were sounds we’ve never heard before, in our 60+ years, and we were delighted.

There were also barking dogs and scampering sounds across the roof. If we weren’t so tired, the sounds might have kept us awake. The next morning, we were learned from the hotel staff about the sounds of the night.

The screeching was from the Hyrax, a small, stocky mammal that looks a bit like an overgrown guinea pig or a tailless rabbit — but rounder and more compact.

The scampering sounds were likely from Vervet monkeys; a medium-sized, slender primate — about 16–24 inches long (not counting the tail), which is often as long or longer than the body itself, and weighing roughly 6–17 pounds.

The hooting came from the Spotted Eagle Owl. Owls carry a lot of superstitious weight in Kenya, so if you hear one hooting close to the house, don’t be surprised if staff or neighbors react to it as an omen rather than just a bird.

The whistling sound most likely heard was the nightjar — specifically the Montane Nightjar, which is common in the Nairobi highlands. The nightjar is a small, ground-dwelling bird — about 9 inches long, with dark, dappled plumage in tawny, blackish, or chocolate-brown tones that gives it near-perfect camouflage against leaf litter, bark, and rocky ground.

After our “sounds of the night” lesson, we spent the day relaxing on the patio and around the pool. It’s winter here, with night-time temps dipping into the 50s Fahrenheit, so the water is too chilly for a swim. We played with the cats and read books. We enjoyed the many pieces of African and German art, which are displayed. Robert and Kurt arrive tonight, and Patti tomorrow morning. Our first tour is tomorrow, visiting the Great Rift Valley and the Karen Blixen Museum.

Tomorrow: In and around Nairobi