We sailed from the Pacific into Astoria via the Columbia River. We took on a pilot and he guided us around the Columbia Bar; a system of bars and shoals at the mouth of the Columbia River spanning the Oregon and Washington. It is one of the most dangerous bar crossings in the world. The bar is about 3 miles (5 km) wide and 6 miles (10 km) long.  The Columbia River Bar Pilots, based in Astoria, assists vessels navigating the bar.

We headed into town using the double-decker shuttle and jumped off at the first stop. The main street of town is an eclectic mix of bohemian shops, antique stores and restaurants of all cuisines. As today was Sunday, there was also their weekly “Sunday Market” full of purveyors of flowers, wine, honey, unusual food products and high-end crafts. There must have been nearly 200 stalls, spanning several blocks, and as it was also Mother’s Day, the crowds were thick with families and pets.

Astoria, population of 12K, was founded in 1811 by John Jacob Astor, an investor and entrepreneur from New York City whose American Fur Company founded Fort Astoria at the site and established a monopoly in the fur trade in the early 19th century. In recent years, the economy has seen a shift toward tourism and services while still retaining its historical roots in fishing and timber. 

We visited the Columbia River Maritime Museum, which showcases maritime collections including models, full-size watercraft, paintings, figureheads, and all manner of gear, wardrobe, weapons, and instruments employed in commercial, private and military maritime operations. One exhibit told of the project to reunite Yosegaki hinomaru to the families of Japanese soldiers killed in WWII. As we had just been to Japan, this exhibit was very interesting to us.

There was also an exhibit about the Columbia Bar and the thousands of ships that have wreaked there. Over 700 people have lost their lives, earning the area the title of “Graveyard of the Pacific”. As we were departing the museum, we saw the other cruise ship in town today, the American Harmony, from the American Cruise Lines, which provides cruises along the Columbia River.

One thing that Astoria offers but we did not get to do is a free waterfront trolley. By the time we knew about it, we had already purchased our shuttle bus tickets but we’d highly recommend it to others. Run by all volunteers, it looked super fun and it would be a unique was to see the town.

Our sailaway was enjoyable and we loved seeing all the wildlife in the river. Marshall spotted approx. 50 seals frolicking in the wake of the ship. The pictures don’t do the moment justice. They were having so much fun! Once safely in the Pacific, the pilot debarked and we headed south towards Santa Barbara. We’ll be two days at sea, and as we’re only 6 days until our journey ends, the packing will begin.

Tomorrow: Sea Day